Locanda

For a true fine dining experience in Kalkan, one need not travel too far. But getting off the beaten track is necessary. The drive up to Prima Donna boutique resort is a scenic one, along bumpy trails through Patara’s pine forests. And the climb is all the more worth it if you’ve timed your dinner at the resort’s restaurant, Locanda, to catch the sunset.

When we arrive, the satsuma orb is sinking into a haze over Patara beach in the distance, and in unison the lanterns on the table-tops are lit one by one. The restaurant is a cedar-wood structure with the kind of atmosphere you only get at smoky piano bars out of classic Hollywood flicks. How they’ve managed this is a mystery, considering we’re on a mountain-top terrace above the forest’s canopy of vines, pine, and olive trees. Though the retro meets rustic décor, with its classic cinema memorabilia and quirky furnishings may have something to do with it. And then there’s Cengiz, the slightly Hemingway-esque rather charismatic owner of Prima Donna, who sits pensively by the bar over a half-played game of chess. There is something very special about the atmosphere here. We’re 400 meters above sea-level so it’s certainly cooler, but balmy still. As the smell of cedar mixes with the evening´s perfumes of night-blooming flora, we take our seat with a view and lend an appreciative ear to the refrains of warm Latino vocals.

With regards to the food, Locanda puts the emphasis on quality, not quantity. And though the menu is a small one, boasting some very promising items, it’s not fixed. As we’re skimming through it, Gülhan, the manager comes to our table with a warm welcome and says the kitchen is always happy to cook up whatever guests fancy. A bold move on their part and very effective. Luckily, it’s not sushi we fancy tonight. The mushroom risotto under their mains and a juicy steak is what we order, along with a selection of mezzes and the cheese-board. The starters, served with homemade Focaccia, are dangerously delectable. They’re the usual Mediterranean suspects but with added pizzazz: our aubergine ezme has been enhanced with the peppery wooden notes of various herbs and nuts; and the yoghurt dip is clearly made from some superior village yoghurt which couldn’t possibly be more creamy or rich. The selection of cheese is divine, with each cheese packing a distinct and robust flavour, and no space wasted on the cheeseboard by mediocre specimens.

After the starters there is little room left for our mains. A crying shame as these too are executed perfectly from taste to presentation. The risotto is spot on; creamy but not mushy and packed with the umami of flavoursome mushrooms. The Steak proved to be an excellent cut of meat, though a little on the well-done side in this instance. But it’s served with a side of roast veg and potatoes which are fantastic.

It’s clear that a more sophisticated palate is being catered for here. With every dish, Locanda’s chefs demonstrate that they don’t believe in cutting corners when it comes to the quality of ingredients. Surprisingly, prices are more reasonable than you’d expect with such a high standard. Our bill was no bigger than it would have been, had we dined at any of Kalkan’s harbour restaurants.

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